One Pattern, Many Dresses: Kwik Sew 3394

Kwik Sew 3394: Dress #2

In the summer, I live in t-shirt dresses. I often prefer a dress to shorts on the weekends. I love Fresh Produce and Lulu-B designs, but neither sell in stores near me. :(

Kwik Sew 3394 was one of the first patterns I used when I began my ready to waer fast. The pattern has the look and feel of the Fresh Produce and Lulu-B dresses I love.  In my first versions, I found some nice cotton interlock on sale at my local Hancock Fabrics before it closed. The first dress was so comfy, I made a second in another fabric. When the two dresses became summer favorites, I bought more fabric to make fall versions with long sleeves. In further versions, I varied the length and I varied the neckline.

Snippets (from Collette Patterns) arrived in my in box and recommended making patterns multiple times. Yup. My third was by far my best. Nicest fabric and best fit. Although I made the dress now years ago and I still love both the pattern and the original versions of the dress. OK, my first attempts look a tad faded and some of the stitching could be improved... but with each wash it gets softer and my stitching stood the test of time. Still a favorite!

Kwik Sew 3394: dress #1

The pattern was easy and I made minimal modifications to the pattern design. I used a rolled edge on the sleeves and a lettuce edge at the hem. I also used scrap fabric to add a belt to each dress. IMHO this pattern is a winner.

Pattern:
 Kwik Sew 3394

Related Tutorials
Use Your Serger to Make a Belt from Scrap Fabric
Embroider a Belt Made from Scrap Fabric

2013 Score Card

Well my blog has been neglected but I have been sewing... just no time to write about it.

With the passing of a year, I thought I'd take a moment to report on my success with patterns. I still prefer to drape and sew but I've enjoyed learning new techniques through the discipline of sticking to patterns.

And I've learned why I find adjusting patterns so difficult. After examining the clothes I love in my wardrobe, I discovered that there was a reason I purchased certain style of clothes. I am very petite. I have narrow shoulders and I am short-waisted. I am also pear shaped. I gravitate toward dresses and tops that are self belted because fitted clothes rarely hit my waist. I also favor clothes with raglan, kimono and dolman sleeves -- these clothes compensate for my narrow shoulders.

The advantage of making my own clothes is that I can create fitted clothes that compensate for the particular challenges my body presents -- but I find the math a tad tricky. In a fitted dress, I can adjust the dress to fit my petite frame if I alter EITHER the shoulders OR the waist. But not both. For commercial patterns, that means I have been successful adjusting a fitted waist if the sleeves are raglan, dolman or kimono. And I am able to create patterns with set in sleeves if the waist of the pattern has a self belt. But set in sleeves and a fitted waist are difficult for me to create in a manner that meets my perfectionist demands. With that in mind selecting patterns that work for me has been a lot easier....and it translated into a great many more successful projects than failures.

Here is my report of success and failures for summer style clothes:

Success       Pattern OK, But Works Better for My Daughter         Failures
NL6120*                      B5892+                                                              None
V8645                          V8408
M6460                         V8898
V8807*                        V8870+
B5606
B5211*
K3956*
V8898
M6654
V8919
KS2771
KS3003

In fairness, the items in my "did not work for me" list are patterns I should never have sewed for myself. I love the hi-lo look on other folks, but I think I must be to old or to set in my ways for that fashion. Although I got complements on both the skirt (B5892) and the dress (V8870) I made, I felt silly wearing them. I wound up cutting up the material and making other items. And I wound up using the hi-lo patterns to make a darling dress (V8870) and a smart looking skirt (B5892) for my teen age daughter. (I've marked those patterns with an +).

V8898 was a bum steer from a blogger who I otherwise adore. V8898 looks darling on MimiG. I selected it because I thought it would be a more stylish version of B5211, which I made in 5 or 6 versions. But rather than looking chic, as it does on MimiG, it looked just plain strange in my boring DC world.

The hall of fame winners for my summer wardrobe are without question B5211and K3956 The simple lines of these two patterns complemented my love of patterned summer fabric. I made both in a variety of woven and knit fabrics ranging from jersey to silk charmeuse with great success. For both patterns, I added a matching fabric self belt or sash to create dresses I loved wearing in only an hour or two (after initially cutting and altering the pattern).

Here is my report of success and failures for fall style clothes:

Success        Pattern OK, But Does Not Work for Me         Failures

V8919*                                    None                                         M6654

V8408 (OOP)
K2771* 
K3003 

If I had to pick one pattern to use for a fall/winter dress for the rest of my life, it would be 
  V8919. The pattern is that good! I used the pattern in both the straight and A line versions in multiple fabrics. The pattern looked lovely in silk jersey for fall and sewed up like a dream in both a cotton ponte and a wool double knit. The corvette red cotton ponte was a dynamite choice for the office Xmas party. And the wool double knit version keeps my toasty warm on even the coldest days. I get complements of the dress everywhere I go when I wear V8919, but the greatest complement came from one of my childhood girlfriends mother (a seamstress) who said "Wow, look at your fit on that dress." I felt like I had graduated from my challenge to conquer sewing with patterns. Yay.

K2771 is a two piece dress. While I love, love, love the skirt, I'd have to put the top in the "pattern OK, but does not work for me" pile. The top looked boxy and boring on me. But the skirt I've made multiple times in different fabrics for a great, comfortable look.

In addition, I reused the B5211 and the Simplicity New Look Project Runway 6120 patterns I so enjoyed during the summer in fall fabrics. Again the patterns did not disappoint.

That's it for my 2013 sewing report. Sorry about the lack of pictures.

Happy sewing in the new year! 

Updated Scorecard!

I've spent so much free time sewing, I am behind on both reviews and photographs.... but I wanted to share the "scorecard" for my sewing with a pattern adventure for late September and early October.

Recommend
Simplicity 1989 (woven dress)
Butterick 5211 (woven dress)
Kwik Sew 3379 (fleece jacket)

Pattern OK, but will not Sew Again
Kwik Sew 3658 (knit dress)

Photos to follow.

Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 3379, purple fleece blazer

Kwik Sew 3379

Pattern Description: Cardigan

Pattern Sizing: XS-S-M-L-XL 
I made the extra small.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes


Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Although the description is "cardigan," the drawing looked more like an unstructured jacket. I like the shape and the fabric drapes well. I also like the pocket placement!!

The pattern calls for serging the edges for decorative effect. While I liked the look, I had trouble maintaining proper tension and the edges turned out a tad more wavy in places than I preferred.


Fabric Used: Fleece on sale from Hancock Fabrics for $3/yard


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: None


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I may sew this again. I like the shape, but I think I will finish the next garment in a different manner.

Conclusion: I do recommend this pattern.  It was easy and the finished garment has a nice shape.

Pattern Report: Simplicity 1989, classic woven dress

Simplicity 1989 in silk charmeuse

Pattern Description: Simplicity 1989 Sew Simple Misses Pullover Dress and belt

Pattern Sizing:  Size 6-8-10-12-14-16-18 
I cut an 8 at the top and then tapered down to a size 12 on the bottom.

Simplicity 1989

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.


Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very.

Simplicity 1989, wearable muslin in rayon

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love patterned silk so I am often on the hunt for a simple design for a dress.  This pattern fits the bill. The simple, classic design highlights the colorful patterns on the silk and the ease the sewing works will for a slippery, difficult fabric.

Fabric Used: 
I used a rayon from Fabric Mart on sale $3/yard as my wearable muslin. I liked the dress so much I wore it to a cocktail party. My second and third dresses using this pattern were made from printed silk charmeuse. I used VERY different fabrics for each dress and my family were surprised when I told them all three dresses were made from the same pattern.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I added a facing to the neckline and then I used decorative top stitch rather than using bias tape.

I adjusted the bust dart.

I added fullness to the sleeves by cutting the sleeves to a 10, but left the armscythe an 8.

On the third dress I made using this pattern, I laid the back piece on the fold. The back center seam was not needed and interfered with the pattern on the lovely blue silk charmeuse.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes. This pattern is a keeper! I highly recommend this pattern.

Conclusion: A great pattern!

Pattern Report: Butterick 5211, silk panel dress

Butterick 5211

I bought some fantastic colorful silk fabric with a distinctive panel.  The fabric was expensive so I bought only two yards. The fabric demanded a simple dress design to take best advantage of the luscious material. Butterick 5211 was just the ticket.


Pattern Description: Fast & Easy, Misses' Dress and Belt

Pattern Sizing: BB, 8, 10, 12, 14
I cut a size 8 on the top and then tapered down to a size 12.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes!


Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I was using a very expensive panel silk and I wanted a simple pattern that showed off the panel but that I could cut using only two yards of fabric.


Fabric Used:
A really yummy red panel silk from Exquisite Fabrics in Georgetown.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 
I cut the back on the fold to take advantage of the panel.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes I will likely sew it again and I highly recommend this pattern. It is a simple pattern that shows off prints and was especially good for a print panel.


Conclusion: B5211 is a great pattern. I will likely use it again and I highly recommend it. Photos to follow.

Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 3658, blue knit top

Kwik Sew 3658

I saw this pattern on patternreview. Marjoriekh's review particularly intrigued me. I loved what she did in her one pattern, many dress entry.


Pattern Description: Kwik Sew 3658 Misses' Dress & Top

Pattern Sizing: XS-S-M-L-XL 
I cut an XS and tapered to a M. The dress was small....something that has never before happened to me in a Kwik Sew or other pattern....but it fit my daughter perfectly.

Kwik Sew 3658

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.


Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the shape of the pattern. The top is nice and the double layer from the facing makes the top well suited for fall.


Fabric Used: Cotton interlock from Hancock Fabrics


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made a lettuce hem to the top and sleeves to create a more youthful look for my daughter.


On the advice of PR reviews, I stitched the neckline 1-inch higher than called for in the pattern. ... and I was glad I did so. Thanks PR!!

Kwik Sew 3658

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I may make the dress. I recommend it, but read the reviews on PR, there are good tips.


Conclusion: I enjoyed this pattern and my daughter was thrilled with the top.

Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 3053, cotton woven dress that ties in back

Kwik Sew 3052, tie in back

I bought this pattern before I knew about patternreview.com. I selected this pattern because I was determined to sew with more discipline and to learn how to use patterns, rather than sketch, drape and sew. 3053 is in the "learn to sew" series. The drawing looked like it was a basic dress similar to many in my wardrobe. Since the pattern had few pieces, it seemed (or should I say seamed) like a good pattern to begin my "learn to use a pattern when sewing quest."

The pattern got shoved to the bottom of my "to do" list and it was not until late summer I used it. Although my muslin was short sleeves, my intent was to make a fall dress from some yummy cotton fabric in my stash.

Pattern Description: XS-S-M-L-XL

Pattern Sizing:
I cut an XS on top and shaped down to a S at the hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes


Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes

Kwik Sew 3053, tie in front

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? As with most Kwik Sew patterns, the instructions are very clear.


I really like the fact that Kwik Sew publishes on paper, rather than tissue. Since I often sew patterns I like in different sizes for different family members, I really appreciate a pattern that is more durable and easier to trace.


Fabric Used: Cotton on sale for $2/yard at Hancock Fabrics


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: None


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I am undecided. I sewed this as a muslin, but found the dress just boring and blah whether I tied it in the front or the back.


Conclusion: Pattern OK, but I am unlikely to use again.

Pattern Report: Butterick Waverly B5507, shopping bag

Butterick B5507

Pattern Description: Butterick Waverly B5507, shopping and lunch bags

Pattern Sizing: None


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Sort of.


Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
This pattern was easy to sew and I like that the bag folds up inside itself ...but the shape of the bag makes it poorly suited for shopping. The bag is very wide and shallow. The shape is not well suited for shopping as groceries may fall out.

Fabric Used: Mystery fabric bought on sale at Hancock Fabrics. I first used the fabric for making a muslin and then cut up the muslin to recover the fabric and use to make grocery bags.

Embroidery close up

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: None other than embroidering on the bag prior to sewing.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I am unlikely to use this pattern again.


Conclusion: The pattern was OK, but not for me.

Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 3085, rainbow fleece jacket

Kwik Sew 3085

Pattern Description: Kwik Sew 3085 Misses' Jackets


Pattern Sizing: XS-S-M-L-XL

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.


Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The pattern was huge. I made an XS and it was still quite large.

Fabric Used: Fleece on sale for $3/yard from Hancock Fabrics


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: None
This was a wearable muslin made with inexpensive fleece. If I make this pattern again I will need to narrow the shoulders and shorten the entire length of the jacket.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I made this jacket for my daughter who liked it even though it did not fit as well as I wanted. I may sew it again, but I was disappointed at how off the sizing was on this pattern (compared to other Kwik Sew patterns).

Conclusion: 
Pattern OK, but unsure if I will use again

Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 3739, zebra fleece coat

Kwik Sew 3739

I found some zebra fleece in the bargain bin at Hancock Fabrics. I could not decide if it was fabulous or not, but at $3 a yard I purchased it to use as a "muslin" for new fleece patterns.

Then the fall catalogs began to arrive. After seeing the Sonia Rykiel animal print coat at Bloomingdales and the Chloe python print coat and the Roberto Cavalli jaguar print caftan at Bergdorf Goodmans, I decided my zebra print was a real score.

Kwik Sew 3739

Still, I had a hard time deciding what to do with this zebra fleece fabric. The hunt was on and I found my inspiration at Neiman's with the Brushstroke-Print Cashmere Cardigan. The shape looked a lot like the Kwik Sew 3379, version B but I also liked the shape of Kwik Sew 3096. ..... but neither pattern was available at my local store, so instead I made Kwik Sew 3739.

Pattern Description: Kwik Sew 3739 Coats

Pattern Sizing: XS-S-M-L-XL 
I cut an XS on top tapered to a S on bottom. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes


Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? 
This pattern was more sack like than I expected. It is better suited as a robe or a "house coat" than a coat.

Fabric Used: Fleece from Hancock Fabrics


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: None

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Perhaps. It is nice for cold days, while watching TV.


Conclusion: Pattern OK, but not for me.

Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 3633, long sleeve color blocked knit dress

Kwik Sew 3633

Pattern Description: Pullover dress


Pattern Sizing: XS-S-M-L-XL 
I cut an XS on top and tapered down to between a small and a medium on the bottom

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.


Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the look of color block! I wanted a fall dress and I made this long sleeve, perfect for transition weather.

I had difficulty attaching the top to the skirt. The seam kept stretching and coming out more textured than I like.


Fabric Used: Cotton interlock from Hancock Fabrics


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: None


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? 
I will not sew this again. I was never completely pleased with the cross seam joining the color block.


Conclusion: OK pattern, but did not work for me. Photos to follow.

Pattern Report: Successes & Failures for Summer 2011

So my goal this summer was to learn to sew from patterns, rather than drape and sew using items hanging in my closet as a guide for sizing. Last week, I outlined some of the tips I learned about successful pattern execution. The analytical side of me wants to set out my scorecard of successes and failures.

Obviously, what is a success and what is a failure is subjective. For my purposes, the definition is simple: the project is a success if I liked the garment and either I (or one of my kids) enjoyed wearing it. The garment was a failure if I never wanted to wear it. Failures will be taken apart and the fabric reclaimed for future projects.

Here is my score card to date: 

Successes                                                Failures
*Vogue 8534 (dress & blouse)                Vogue 8647 (dress)
Vogue 8278  (dress)                                Vogue 8632 (dress)
New Look 6915 (blouse/tunic/mini dress)
*Kwik Sew 3394 (T-shirt dress)              Kwik Sew 3225 (wrap dress; unusual construction)
*Kwik Sew 2982 (tank dress)                    Kwik Sew 2954 (wrap skirt)
Kwik Sew 3551 (night gown)
*Kwik Sew 3074 (shorts)
Kwik Sew 3700 (bag/purse)

The successful starred patterns I used multiple times.

While there were quite a few failures (bummer), the success column is greater. Yay! Back to sewing.

Related Entries
Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 322
Pattern Report: New Look 6915
Pattern Report: Two-Tone Purple Color Blocked Dress
Tips on Using Sewing Patterns
Embroider a Belt Made from Scrap Fabric for Kwik Sew 3394
Use Your Serger to Make a Belt from Scrap Fabric for Kwik Sew 2982

Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 3225 Dress

Kwik Sew 3225

Yesterday I finished making Kwik Sew 3225. I am not sure how I feel about this dress. On the hanger, it looks really cute. I am very pleased with the decorative stitching I added to the yoke of the dress in lieu of top stitching.

Decorative stitching at yoke

The problem with the dress is the way the sides sag. Sometimes the sagging is just unsightly. Sometimes the sagging reveals bra. Not a pretty look. I added snaps to help deal with the issue, but the snaps caused the dress to lay funny.

I've decided the pattern may work, but just not for me. Bummer. I really liked the look of the dress on the pattern envelope and on the hanger. On me, not so much.

Reference
"Easy Sewing the KWIK SEW Way"; Kerstin Martensson; 2002.

Pattern
Kwik Sew 3225

Tips on Using Sewing Patterns

So I already explained that my goal for the summer was to improve my skills at using a commercial pattern. I still think it is far easier to use clothes hanging in my closet than purchasing a commercial pattern to make clothes, but my skills have improved and so I thought I would share the tips I learned so far:

1. Trace commercial patterns rather than cut your patterns. Use freezer paper (or butcher paper) found in your grocery store to trace sewing and quilting patterns rather than cutting the commercial pattern paper. For more durable patterns you may reuse, consider purchasing a transparent, tear-resistant cloth such as Kwik Trace, Swedish tracing paper or a lightweight nonfusible interfacing. Tracing patterns allows you to reuse patterns again. The ability to reuse patterns is very important if the pattern does not fit well, if you want to be able to reuse the pattern to make the item for another person or if you are sewing for growing children.

2. Use transfer paper (Clover or Saral, in red, blue or white) to trace darts on your cloth so the darts are placed with precision. Tracing the instructions directly onto the wrong side of the fabric is far easier than cutting notches, etc. Precision makes a better garment and it is easier to be precise when using tracing and a pencil.

3. Take advantage of multi-size patterns to craft your own size. Are you pear shaped? Use a smaller size on the top than on the bottom and adjust the pattern. Are you an upside down triangle? Do the reverse, use a smaller size on the bottom and adjust the top. Trace your adjustments using transfer paper to a lightweight cloth to test your self designed patter.

4. Use online resources. There is a rich sewing community anxious to share their experience with sewing specific patterns and sewing skills in general. Check Pattern Review before you buy patterns and consult the notes on specific reviews to see how other sewers with similar builds made alterations and adaptations to the patterns to make it work.

5. Use clothes that fit to check your pattern. Using a commercial pattern does not preclude using the clothes that hang in the closet as a pattern. Rather than draw the pattern from the clothes, using the clothes with a similar design as a reality check can save hours of time struggling to altering the pattern from scratch. Simple, but it took me a few failed projects to realize I can incorporate my success in free drafting to using commercial patterns. As my kids say, duh Mom!

6. Use the pattern layout as a guide, not a bible. If you are cutting a small size, there may be a more cloth efficient pattern layout. Just be sure to cut items on the fold when specified.

7. Read the instructions thoroughly before beginning the project... and ask questions, when instructions are not clear. If you do not have a sewing mentor or a good fabric shop for inquiries, check online resources such as the message board on Pattern Review or the comment section of your favorite sewing blogger.

8. Beware the scissor elf. This little menace may not exist in your house, but properly cut patterns are critical to sewing success and the gosh, darn scissor elf can ruin even the best garments. The old adage holds true, measure twice and cut once.

9. Make a muslin. Test patterns, especially if you plan to sew on expensive fabrics.... but take the test results with a grain of salt when you are using different types of fabric. That polyester weave you bought on sale for $1 a yard to use for muslins most likely will not drape the same as silk charmeuse.

10. Don't be afraid of experimenting....but understand that certain instructions, like fabric recommendations, are made for a reason. Muslins are great places to experiment.

11. Quilting cottons can be used for garment construction, but the weave for quilting cottons is often denser than the weave for cottons made for clothes. Yes, I know this is a hotly debated item in the sewing world and certain fabrics may make you echo Tim Gunn's complaint that an item is "home ecy." If you want to sew clothes using quilting cottons, select patterns that call for denim or use a pattern especially designed for clothes made with quilting cottons such as those offered by Kwik Sew. For example, try Kwik Sew 3653  (Pieced Tie Front Jacket), Kwik Sew 3564 (Dolman Sleeve Jacket), Kwik Sew 3563 (Pieced Jackets),  Kwik Sew 3872 (Dress) and Kwik Sew 3870 (Blouse). Patterns that list denim as a fabric option are often good choices for quilting cottons because the pattern requires a stiffer, denser weave fabric.

12. Take notes on what works and what does not work with each pattern. Write your notes on the directions, package front or on a piece of paper you keep with the pattern. Each alteration brings a new lesson that can be incorporated into the next project, but you may need notes to jog your memory -- especially if you put the pattern or project aside between sewing sessions.

References
http://sewing.patternreview.com/
http://www.colettepatterns.com/how-to
 http://www.threadsmagazine.com/tips-and-tricks

Pattern Recommendations for Quilting Cotton
Kwik Sew 3653  (Pieced Tie Front Jacket),
Kwik Sew 3564 (Dolman Sleeve Jacket),
Kwik Sew 3563 (Pieced Jackets),
Kwik Sew 3872 (Dress)
Kwik Sew 3870 (Blouse).
Kwik Sew 3545 (Bags),
Kwik Sew 3700 (Serged Bags)