2013 Score Card

Well my blog has been neglected but I have been sewing... just no time to write about it.

With the passing of a year, I thought I'd take a moment to report on my success with patterns. I still prefer to drape and sew but I've enjoyed learning new techniques through the discipline of sticking to patterns.

And I've learned why I find adjusting patterns so difficult. After examining the clothes I love in my wardrobe, I discovered that there was a reason I purchased certain style of clothes. I am very petite. I have narrow shoulders and I am short-waisted. I am also pear shaped. I gravitate toward dresses and tops that are self belted because fitted clothes rarely hit my waist. I also favor clothes with raglan, kimono and dolman sleeves -- these clothes compensate for my narrow shoulders.

The advantage of making my own clothes is that I can create fitted clothes that compensate for the particular challenges my body presents -- but I find the math a tad tricky. In a fitted dress, I can adjust the dress to fit my petite frame if I alter EITHER the shoulders OR the waist. But not both. For commercial patterns, that means I have been successful adjusting a fitted waist if the sleeves are raglan, dolman or kimono. And I am able to create patterns with set in sleeves if the waist of the pattern has a self belt. But set in sleeves and a fitted waist are difficult for me to create in a manner that meets my perfectionist demands. With that in mind selecting patterns that work for me has been a lot easier....and it translated into a great many more successful projects than failures.

Here is my report of success and failures for summer style clothes:

Success       Pattern OK, But Works Better for My Daughter         Failures
NL6120*                      B5892+                                                              None
V8645                          V8408
M6460                         V8898
V8807*                        V8870+
B5606
B5211*
K3956*
V8898
M6654
V8919
KS2771
KS3003

In fairness, the items in my "did not work for me" list are patterns I should never have sewed for myself. I love the hi-lo look on other folks, but I think I must be to old or to set in my ways for that fashion. Although I got complements on both the skirt (B5892) and the dress (V8870) I made, I felt silly wearing them. I wound up cutting up the material and making other items. And I wound up using the hi-lo patterns to make a darling dress (V8870) and a smart looking skirt (B5892) for my teen age daughter. (I've marked those patterns with an +).

V8898 was a bum steer from a blogger who I otherwise adore. V8898 looks darling on MimiG. I selected it because I thought it would be a more stylish version of B5211, which I made in 5 or 6 versions. But rather than looking chic, as it does on MimiG, it looked just plain strange in my boring DC world.

The hall of fame winners for my summer wardrobe are without question B5211and K3956 The simple lines of these two patterns complemented my love of patterned summer fabric. I made both in a variety of woven and knit fabrics ranging from jersey to silk charmeuse with great success. For both patterns, I added a matching fabric self belt or sash to create dresses I loved wearing in only an hour or two (after initially cutting and altering the pattern).

Here is my report of success and failures for fall style clothes:

Success        Pattern OK, But Does Not Work for Me         Failures

V8919*                                    None                                         M6654

V8408 (OOP)
K2771* 
K3003 

If I had to pick one pattern to use for a fall/winter dress for the rest of my life, it would be 
  V8919. The pattern is that good! I used the pattern in both the straight and A line versions in multiple fabrics. The pattern looked lovely in silk jersey for fall and sewed up like a dream in both a cotton ponte and a wool double knit. The corvette red cotton ponte was a dynamite choice for the office Xmas party. And the wool double knit version keeps my toasty warm on even the coldest days. I get complements of the dress everywhere I go when I wear V8919, but the greatest complement came from one of my childhood girlfriends mother (a seamstress) who said "Wow, look at your fit on that dress." I felt like I had graduated from my challenge to conquer sewing with patterns. Yay.

K2771 is a two piece dress. While I love, love, love the skirt, I'd have to put the top in the "pattern OK, but does not work for me" pile. The top looked boxy and boring on me. But the skirt I've made multiple times in different fabrics for a great, comfortable look.

In addition, I reused the B5211 and the Simplicity New Look Project Runway 6120 patterns I so enjoyed during the summer in fall fabrics. Again the patterns did not disappoint.

That's it for my 2013 sewing report. Sorry about the lack of pictures.

Happy sewing in the new year! 

Pattern Report: Vogue 8777, Katherine Tilton

This is the first review for a pattern I never made. I bought V8777 because I loved, loved, loved the design. I purchased some really nice wool that I wanted to turn into a vest. I often take out patterns and read the pattern through the evening or so before I begin a new project. Light reading.

This pattern was the first where I was sure something was missing. Often, when a pattern confuses me I assume my inexperience is the problem. That may be the case with this pattern as well, but after shutting off the TV and reading and then re-reading the pattern several times, I still could not make heads or tails out of the instructions.

I turned to patternreview.com for help and saw that V8777 had never been reviewed. Oops. I forgot. When I bought the pattern I knew that there were no reviews. I attributed the lack of review to the simple design....but maybe others found the pattern instructions as confusing as I did.

Vogue pattern 1124 is a Sandra Betzina design with a similar look, so perhaps I will purchase V1124 and give it a try to make my vest.

Pattern Report: Vogue 8522, purple fleece jacket

Vogue 8522 made with purple fleece

Score! I bought this pattern because I wanted a new fall jacket. I bought some inexpensive purple fleece at Hancock Fabrics to use as a wearable muslin... but my daughter decided she loved the look and so I made Vogue 8522 jacket for her rather than me. This is an easy to make, cute jacket that my daughter wears over dresses. Perfect for fall!



Pattern Description: Jacket with kimono sleeves


Pattern Sizing: 8-16
I made a size 8.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? yes.


Were the instructions easy to follow? yes


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Fabric Used: purple fleece on sale for $3/yard at Hancock Fabrics.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: None


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes. This jacket is cute. I would have made one for myself, bu my daughter forbade it...I'll have to wait a year or two, but I will make this jacket for me using a nice wool.


Conclusion: Vogue 8522 is a winner!


Further Reading:
Vogue Revised & Updated
Vogue Sewing; Editors of Vogue & Butterick

Fall Sewing

Simplicity just launched the Sew Simple series that fit in nicely with my "learn to sew from a pattern" quest. These patterns are on the to do list:
Simplicity 1989 (woven dress)
Simplicity 2002 (fleece jacket with woven trim)
Simplicity 2030 (fleece cape)
Simplicity 2018 (knit top)

I also need a new fall skirt and am inclined to use Butterick, B5466 or McCalls M6038.

Once I complete these projects, I want to tackle a wrap dress, a knit dress and a shirt dress. Even after reading Patternreview.com, I am undecided not sure what pattern to purchase or use. There are a few candidates for the wrap dress:
Kwik Sew 3489
Butterick B5030
Vogue V8646 or
Vogue 8631

There are also a few candidates for the knit dress:
Vogue V8663
McCalls M6200
Simplicity Lisette 2060

For the shirt dress, these patterns tempt me:
Simplicity Lisette 2246
McCalls M6279
McCalls M6116

But....I still have the four patterns left to be completed from my summer sewing quest.

Kwik Sew 3564 (woven quilt fabric jacket)
Kwik Sew 3658 (knit dress/top)
Kwik Sew 3870 (woven top)
Kwik Sew 3545 (woven quilt fabric bag)

These all have long sleeve versions and can be used for fall. Yay.

That's my fall sewing plan. What's yours?

Pattern Score Card Update

So the summer is over and we are well in to "back to school" mode. I spent the summer learning how to sew from patterns, rather than just sketch, drape and sew. I still find construction from patterns challenging, but I am making steady progress. Here is my final score card for patterns sewn this summer: 

Successes                                                Failures
*Vogue 8534 (dress & blouse)                Vogue 8647 (dress)
Vogue 8278  (dress)                                Vogue 8632 (dress)
New Look 6915 (blouse/tunic/mini dress)
*Kwik Sew 3394 (T-shirt dress)              Kwik Sew 3225 (wrap dress; unusual construction)
*Kwik Sew 2982 (tank dress)                    Kwik Sew 2954 (wrap skirt)
Kwik Sew 3551 (night gown)
*Kwik Sew 3074 (shorts)
Kwik Sew 3700 (bag/purse)

Pattern OK, But Would Not Repeat
Kwik Sew 3053 (woven dress with tie in back)
Kwik Sew 3085 (fleece jacket)
Kwik Sew 3633 (color block knit dress)
Kwik Sew 3739 (fleece coat)
Butterick Waverly B5507 (shopping and lunch bags)

I have a few more patterns yet to sew in my "learn to sew from a pattern" plan... but the good news, all are suited for fall:

Kwik Sew 3564 (woven quilt fabric jacket)
Kwik Sew 3658 (knit dress)
Kwik Sew 3870 (woven top)
Kwik Sew 3545 (woven quilt fabric bag)

Pattern Report: Successes & Failures for Summer 2011

So my goal this summer was to learn to sew from patterns, rather than drape and sew using items hanging in my closet as a guide for sizing. Last week, I outlined some of the tips I learned about successful pattern execution. The analytical side of me wants to set out my scorecard of successes and failures.

Obviously, what is a success and what is a failure is subjective. For my purposes, the definition is simple: the project is a success if I liked the garment and either I (or one of my kids) enjoyed wearing it. The garment was a failure if I never wanted to wear it. Failures will be taken apart and the fabric reclaimed for future projects.

Here is my score card to date: 

Successes                                                Failures
*Vogue 8534 (dress & blouse)                Vogue 8647 (dress)
Vogue 8278  (dress)                                Vogue 8632 (dress)
New Look 6915 (blouse/tunic/mini dress)
*Kwik Sew 3394 (T-shirt dress)              Kwik Sew 3225 (wrap dress; unusual construction)
*Kwik Sew 2982 (tank dress)                    Kwik Sew 2954 (wrap skirt)
Kwik Sew 3551 (night gown)
*Kwik Sew 3074 (shorts)
Kwik Sew 3700 (bag/purse)

The successful starred patterns I used multiple times.

While there were quite a few failures (bummer), the success column is greater. Yay! Back to sewing.

Related Entries
Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 322
Pattern Report: New Look 6915
Pattern Report: Two-Tone Purple Color Blocked Dress
Tips on Using Sewing Patterns
Embroider a Belt Made from Scrap Fabric for Kwik Sew 3394
Use Your Serger to Make a Belt from Scrap Fabric for Kwik Sew 2982

Pattern Report: Two-Tone Purple Color Blocked Dress

Vogue V8552, as altered

Everybody in the fashion world is now familiar with Tim Gunn's "make it work" fashion design philosophy. When my sister was studying fashion design in college, she had a professor that was even more specific. Her prof advised the students that there are two choices when confronted with a mistake: hide it or accentuate it. I was reminded of that advice as I worked on my most recent project.

I had leftover fabric from a dress I made using Kwik Sew 3394 , that I reviewed here when I joined patternreview.com. I loved the drape of the blouse I made for my daughter using Vogue pattern V8534, reviewed here. So I decided to make a dress that combined the look of the two patterns, Vogue V8534 for the top and Kwik Sew 3394 for the bottom of the dress.
I know, how many purple knit dresses does a girl need? ....but I had leftover fabric and purple is a great color on me.

Close up of belt detail

As it turns out, my idea was not new. Vogue already had a pattern doing close to what I wanted: Vogue V8552. I used V8552 view B as a guide and planned for  a number of small pattern alterations. I added a belt and omitted the pockets. I skipped the zipper as there was plenty of ease and this worked well as a pullover dress. Rather than cut cap sleeves, I constructed the top as a dolman sleeve. I used my serger to make rolled hem at the sleeves and lettuce edge at the hemline.
 

Close up of color blocked inset

True confessions. The surprise pattern alteration was the color block I added to the sides of my dress. It seems the scissor elf played a trick between the time I cut my fabric and I began sewing. That has to be what happened....because the dress was cut wrong and I did not have quite enough fabric for the dress to cover my rump. :( Not a pretty look. I decided to create side panels to solve the problem. I pinned in matching fabric and contrasting fabric as tests before sewing. The matching fabric just looked like strange construction. The contrasting fabric (I used a darker shade of purple) looked like a color blocked fashion statement. Yay! Since the dress fit fine up top, I cut an inset panel that ran from 1-inch to 3-inches. After a 5/8 seam allowance, the inset ran from just under 1/2 inch under the arm and at the bodice to about 2-inches over the hip to the hemline. To tie the look together, I used my serger to create the belt with leftover fabric the color of the dress and dark thread the color of the inset panels.

I love the look of color block, but the look goes in and out of fashion so fast I could not remember whether the dress I just created was a modern or retro look. That evening, I found the latest Lord and Taylor Style Guide in my mailbox. Whoopie! Lord and Taylor devoted nine pages to color block styles labeling it "The Modernist." The brochure read, "Mod-style colorblock creates a stand-out effect. It's the new way of looking at vibrant head-to-toe color." Good to know. :)

I do not have Sofia Vergara's figure and, even if I did, there is no way I could wear a tight dress like she does in a downtown DC work environment, but I really love the way the color blocked side panels came out on this dress.

Patterns 
Vogue V8534
Kwik Sew 3394
Vogue V8552
 
Summary of pattern alterations for Vogue V8552: 
1) no pockets;
2) added belt;
3) added color block sides;
4) omitted zipper;
5) omitted cap sleeve and constructed as a dolman sleeve;
6) rolled hem at sleeves;
7) lettuce edge at hem line.

Related Tutorials & Thoughts
Use Your Serger to Make a Belt from Scrap Fabric
Embroider a Belt Made from Scrap Fabric
Tips on Using Sewing Patterns
Sewing with Commercial Patterns: Pattern Fitting & Alterations

Sewing with Commercial Patterns: Pattern Fitting & Alterations

Pattern-less dress with self belt

I've been sewing for years, but I sew mostly crafts and household items. When I sew apparel, I rarely use commercial patterns. Usually I grab something that fits me or one of my kids and use that item as a sizing guide to create a similar look in the fabric of my choice. If there is no item that fits, I get the fabric and start draping and pinning until I have something that works.

My goal this summer is to learn how to use commercial patterns effectively. When I follow the instructions on the commercial patterns I inevitable get something that is HUGE.

Vogue 8647, still large

I sought help. I consulted the folks at G Street Fabrics and my local Hancock Fabrics for help. I asked to be measured and confirmed the size I should be sewing. Although I am a pear shaped petite and usually wear a store bought size 4, all my consultants confirmed that I should sew a size 14 for the two patterns

I selected from the Very Easy Vogue series. The instructions for Vogue V8647 and V8632 were easy to follow. Rather than sew a muslin, I selected some very inexpensive fabric I had purchased on sale at Hancock Fabrics to create a "wearable muslin." The results were

Vogue 8632, after alterations

disaster for both patterns. The size 14 Vogue pattern fit like a store bought size 14. Both dresses were HUGE everywhere. I altered both dresses but neither really fit well and would not be worn. Both were relegated to the scrap pile or what my great Uncle calls an AFLE (another __ learning experience).

I purchased Nancy Zieman's book on adjusting patterns, Pattern Fitting With Confidence. According to Nancy's book, I cut the wrong size pattern. Oops. The "right size" pattern for me would have been a size 6 or size 8 because my shoulders and top are petite. Her explanation made a LOT of sense to me. I could not alter the Vogue dresses well because the top was big across the shoulders. Ugh.

Since I followed the Vogue instructions and cut the pattern out before cutting my fabric I could not go back and make the adjustments needed to try the pattern again. I cut the 14 from the tissue paper and cutting a 6 or 8 would no longer be possible. Serious bummer. Making a muslin did not really help me because I had followed the Vogue instructions cut the darn pattern and now had no useful pattern to work with. Double ugh.

Vogue V8534

During one of my many excursions to G Street for help, my daughter found some fabulous fabric. She does that, she has really great taste and is as dangerous as I am in a fabric shop. She picked Vogue pattern V8534 and asked me to make her a new blouse. She prefers design and embellishment to fabrication and she wanted the top fast for an upcoming event. Yay, Mom. My daughter is also pear shaped and even more petite than I am. She measure a size 6 and I sewed a size six. Like the first two projects, the Vogue pattern was large. I added a facing to the blouse, created lettuce hem using a rolled edge with my serger and I followed Nancy's pattern alteration techniques for better fit. The top came out really well. Thank you, Nancy.

Pattern Fitting With Confidence could not save my earlier projects. :( Both patterns were cut to the wrong size and there was no way to try again without purchasing new patterns. Not going to happen. Applying Nancy's techniques, I was able to alter the next pattern and create a really nice top for my daughter. Yay!


Reference
Pattern Fitting With Confidence; Nancy Zieman; 2008.

Further Reading 
"The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting"; Sarah Veblen; 2012.
"How to Use, Adapt, and Design Sewing Patterns: From store-bought patterns to drafting your own: a complete guide to fashion sewing with confidence"; Lee Hollahan; 2010.
"Fit for Real People: Sew Great Clothes Using ANY Pattern (Sewing for Real People series)"; Pati Palmer, Marta Alto; 2006.

"The Perfect Fit: The Classic Guide to Altering Patterns"; Creative Publishing; 2005.
"Fast Fit: Easy Pattern Alterations for Every Figure"; Sandra Betzina; 2003.