Everybody in the fashion world is now familiar with
Tim Gunn's "make it work" fashion design philosophy. When my sister was studying fashion design in college, she had a professor that was even more specific. Her prof advised the students that there are two choices when confronted with a mistake: hide it or accentuate it. I was reminded of that advice as I worked on my most recent project.
I had leftover fabric from a dress I made using
Kwik Sew 3394 , that I reviewed
here when I
joined patternreview.com. I loved the drape of the blouse I made for my daughter using Vogue pattern
V8534, reviewed
here. So I decided to make a dress that combined the look of the two patterns, Vogue
V8534 for the top and
Kwik Sew 3394 for the bottom of the dress.
I know, how many purple knit dresses does a girl need? ....but I had leftover fabric and purple is a great color on me.
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Close up of belt detail |
As it turns out, my idea was not new. Vogue already had a pattern doing close to what I wanted:
Vogue V8552. I used
V8552 view B as a guide and planned for a number of small pattern alterations. I added a belt and omitted the pockets. I skipped the zipper as there was plenty of ease and this worked well as a pullover dress. Rather than cut cap sleeves, I constructed the top as a dolman sleeve. I used my serger to make rolled hem at the sleeves and lettuce edge at the hemline.
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Close up of color blocked inset |
True confessions. The surprise pattern alteration was the color block I added to the sides of my dress. It seems the scissor elf played a trick between the time I cut my fabric and I began sewing. That has to be what happened....because the dress was cut wrong and I did not have quite enough fabric for the dress to cover my rump. :( Not a pretty look. I decided to create side panels to solve the problem. I pinned in matching fabric and contrasting fabric as tests before sewing. The matching fabric just looked like strange construction. The contrasting fabric (I used a darker shade of purple) looked like a color blocked fashion statement. Yay! Since the dress fit fine up top, I cut an inset panel that ran from 1-inch to 3-inches. After a 5/8 seam allowance, the inset ran from just under 1/2 inch under the arm and at the bodice to about 2-inches over the hip to the hemline. To tie the look together, I used my serger to create the belt with leftover fabric the color of the dress and dark thread the color of the inset panels.
I love the look of color block, but the look goes in and out of fashion so fast I could not remember whether the dress I just created was a modern or retro look. That evening, I found the latest Lord and Taylor Style Guide in my mailbox. Whoopie! Lord and Taylor devoted nine pages to color block styles labeling it "The Modernist." The brochure read, "Mod-style colorblock creates a stand-out effect. It's the new way of looking at vibrant head-to-toe color." Good to know. :)
I do not have
Sofia Vergara's figure and, even if I did, there is no way I could wear a tight dress like she does in a downtown DC work environment, but I really love the way the color blocked side panels came out on this dress.
Patterns
Vogue V8534
Kwik Sew 3394
Vogue V8552
Summary of pattern alterations for Vogue V8552:
1) no pockets;
2) added belt;
3) added color block sides;
4) omitted zipper;
5) omitted cap sleeve and constructed as a dolman sleeve;
6) rolled hem at sleeves;
7) lettuce edge at hem line.
Related Tutorials & Thoughts
Use Your Serger to Make a Belt from Scrap Fabric
Embroider a Belt Made from Scrap Fabric
Tips on Using Sewing Patterns
Sewing with Commercial Patterns: Pattern Fitting & Alterations
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