Sewing with Commercial Patterns: Pattern Fitting & Alterations

Pattern-less dress with self belt

I've been sewing for years, but I sew mostly crafts and household items. When I sew apparel, I rarely use commercial patterns. Usually I grab something that fits me or one of my kids and use that item as a sizing guide to create a similar look in the fabric of my choice. If there is no item that fits, I get the fabric and start draping and pinning until I have something that works.

My goal this summer is to learn how to use commercial patterns effectively. When I follow the instructions on the commercial patterns I inevitable get something that is HUGE.

Vogue 8647, still large

I sought help. I consulted the folks at G Street Fabrics and my local Hancock Fabrics for help. I asked to be measured and confirmed the size I should be sewing. Although I am a pear shaped petite and usually wear a store bought size 4, all my consultants confirmed that I should sew a size 14 for the two patterns

I selected from the Very Easy Vogue series. The instructions for Vogue V8647 and V8632 were easy to follow. Rather than sew a muslin, I selected some very inexpensive fabric I had purchased on sale at Hancock Fabrics to create a "wearable muslin." The results were

Vogue 8632, after alterations

disaster for both patterns. The size 14 Vogue pattern fit like a store bought size 14. Both dresses were HUGE everywhere. I altered both dresses but neither really fit well and would not be worn. Both were relegated to the scrap pile or what my great Uncle calls an AFLE (another __ learning experience).

I purchased Nancy Zieman's book on adjusting patterns, Pattern Fitting With Confidence. According to Nancy's book, I cut the wrong size pattern. Oops. The "right size" pattern for me would have been a size 6 or size 8 because my shoulders and top are petite. Her explanation made a LOT of sense to me. I could not alter the Vogue dresses well because the top was big across the shoulders. Ugh.

Since I followed the Vogue instructions and cut the pattern out before cutting my fabric I could not go back and make the adjustments needed to try the pattern again. I cut the 14 from the tissue paper and cutting a 6 or 8 would no longer be possible. Serious bummer. Making a muslin did not really help me because I had followed the Vogue instructions cut the darn pattern and now had no useful pattern to work with. Double ugh.

Vogue V8534

During one of my many excursions to G Street for help, my daughter found some fabulous fabric. She does that, she has really great taste and is as dangerous as I am in a fabric shop. She picked Vogue pattern V8534 and asked me to make her a new blouse. She prefers design and embellishment to fabrication and she wanted the top fast for an upcoming event. Yay, Mom. My daughter is also pear shaped and even more petite than I am. She measure a size 6 and I sewed a size six. Like the first two projects, the Vogue pattern was large. I added a facing to the blouse, created lettuce hem using a rolled edge with my serger and I followed Nancy's pattern alteration techniques for better fit. The top came out really well. Thank you, Nancy.

Pattern Fitting With Confidence could not save my earlier projects. :( Both patterns were cut to the wrong size and there was no way to try again without purchasing new patterns. Not going to happen. Applying Nancy's techniques, I was able to alter the next pattern and create a really nice top for my daughter. Yay!


Reference
Pattern Fitting With Confidence; Nancy Zieman; 2008.

Further Reading 
"The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting"; Sarah Veblen; 2012.
"How to Use, Adapt, and Design Sewing Patterns: From store-bought patterns to drafting your own: a complete guide to fashion sewing with confidence"; Lee Hollahan; 2010.
"Fit for Real People: Sew Great Clothes Using ANY Pattern (Sewing for Real People series)"; Pati Palmer, Marta Alto; 2006.

"The Perfect Fit: The Classic Guide to Altering Patterns"; Creative Publishing; 2005.
"Fast Fit: Easy Pattern Alterations for Every Figure"; Sandra Betzina; 2003.