Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 3187, Men's Fleece Jacket

The DH wanted a new fleece jacket. The DH is hard to fit and fussy about jackets in general. DH also does not love fittings. Hmmmm.

My daughter picked out some really nice fleece from Hancock Fabrics for DH and DH selected Kwik Sew 3187 as the style jacket he wanted me to make.

In general, I like Kwik Sew patterns. I like that they are printed on paper rather than tissue. Kwik Sew directions are usually easy to understand. I've made several fleece projects before, including a very similar style jacket for my daughter using Kwik Sew 3085.... but this project proved difficult.

I know, I know. I should have made a muslin, but the fleece was not much more than the cost of muslin and so I plowed ahead. The directions for the pockets puzzled me. I am not sure why, but I read them and read them and something just did not make sense. I cut the pieces and pinned the pockets according to the instructions but the pockets seemed to hang terrible long and looked like hemming would be problematic with the pocket placement.

 I proposed a jacket without pockets but DH was incredulous and told me not to make the jacket if all if it did not have pockets.

After adjusting the pieces and sewing the garment DH decided the jacket was long. Could I cut it shorter? Hmmm. We'd fitted and I'd sewn in the zipper and the dash gone pockets. Shorter? Really?

So the project sits. I know his request is not completely unreasonable. I know I will be able to figure out a way to do it...but right now I need to let it sit...and the man still has no jacket.

The selfish seamstress has a point. It really is easier to sew for yourself.

One Pattern, Many Dresses: Kwik Sew 3394

Kwik Sew 3394: Dress #2

In the summer, I live in t-shirt dresses. I often prefer a dress to shorts on the weekends. I love Fresh Produce and Lulu-B designs, but neither sell in stores near me. :(

Kwik Sew 3394 was one of the first patterns I used when I began my ready to waer fast. The pattern has the look and feel of the Fresh Produce and Lulu-B dresses I love.  In my first versions, I found some nice cotton interlock on sale at my local Hancock Fabrics before it closed. The first dress was so comfy, I made a second in another fabric. When the two dresses became summer favorites, I bought more fabric to make fall versions with long sleeves. In further versions, I varied the length and I varied the neckline.

Snippets (from Collette Patterns) arrived in my in box and recommended making patterns multiple times. Yup. My third was by far my best. Nicest fabric and best fit. Although I made the dress now years ago and I still love both the pattern and the original versions of the dress. OK, my first attempts look a tad faded and some of the stitching could be improved... but with each wash it gets softer and my stitching stood the test of time. Still a favorite!

Kwik Sew 3394: dress #1

The pattern was easy and I made minimal modifications to the pattern design. I used a rolled edge on the sleeves and a lettuce edge at the hem. I also used scrap fabric to add a belt to each dress. IMHO this pattern is a winner.

Pattern:
 Kwik Sew 3394

Related Tutorials
Use Your Serger to Make a Belt from Scrap Fabric
Embroider a Belt Made from Scrap Fabric

2013 Score Card

Well my blog has been neglected but I have been sewing... just no time to write about it.

With the passing of a year, I thought I'd take a moment to report on my success with patterns. I still prefer to drape and sew but I've enjoyed learning new techniques through the discipline of sticking to patterns.

And I've learned why I find adjusting patterns so difficult. After examining the clothes I love in my wardrobe, I discovered that there was a reason I purchased certain style of clothes. I am very petite. I have narrow shoulders and I am short-waisted. I am also pear shaped. I gravitate toward dresses and tops that are self belted because fitted clothes rarely hit my waist. I also favor clothes with raglan, kimono and dolman sleeves -- these clothes compensate for my narrow shoulders.

The advantage of making my own clothes is that I can create fitted clothes that compensate for the particular challenges my body presents -- but I find the math a tad tricky. In a fitted dress, I can adjust the dress to fit my petite frame if I alter EITHER the shoulders OR the waist. But not both. For commercial patterns, that means I have been successful adjusting a fitted waist if the sleeves are raglan, dolman or kimono. And I am able to create patterns with set in sleeves if the waist of the pattern has a self belt. But set in sleeves and a fitted waist are difficult for me to create in a manner that meets my perfectionist demands. With that in mind selecting patterns that work for me has been a lot easier....and it translated into a great many more successful projects than failures.

Here is my report of success and failures for summer style clothes:

Success       Pattern OK, But Works Better for My Daughter         Failures
NL6120*                      B5892+                                                              None
V8645                          V8408
M6460                         V8898
V8807*                        V8870+
B5606
B5211*
K3956*
V8898
M6654
V8919
KS2771
KS3003

In fairness, the items in my "did not work for me" list are patterns I should never have sewed for myself. I love the hi-lo look on other folks, but I think I must be to old or to set in my ways for that fashion. Although I got complements on both the skirt (B5892) and the dress (V8870) I made, I felt silly wearing them. I wound up cutting up the material and making other items. And I wound up using the hi-lo patterns to make a darling dress (V8870) and a smart looking skirt (B5892) for my teen age daughter. (I've marked those patterns with an +).

V8898 was a bum steer from a blogger who I otherwise adore. V8898 looks darling on MimiG. I selected it because I thought it would be a more stylish version of B5211, which I made in 5 or 6 versions. But rather than looking chic, as it does on MimiG, it looked just plain strange in my boring DC world.

The hall of fame winners for my summer wardrobe are without question B5211and K3956 The simple lines of these two patterns complemented my love of patterned summer fabric. I made both in a variety of woven and knit fabrics ranging from jersey to silk charmeuse with great success. For both patterns, I added a matching fabric self belt or sash to create dresses I loved wearing in only an hour or two (after initially cutting and altering the pattern).

Here is my report of success and failures for fall style clothes:

Success        Pattern OK, But Does Not Work for Me         Failures

V8919*                                    None                                         M6654

V8408 (OOP)
K2771* 
K3003 

If I had to pick one pattern to use for a fall/winter dress for the rest of my life, it would be 
  V8919. The pattern is that good! I used the pattern in both the straight and A line versions in multiple fabrics. The pattern looked lovely in silk jersey for fall and sewed up like a dream in both a cotton ponte and a wool double knit. The corvette red cotton ponte was a dynamite choice for the office Xmas party. And the wool double knit version keeps my toasty warm on even the coldest days. I get complements of the dress everywhere I go when I wear V8919, but the greatest complement came from one of my childhood girlfriends mother (a seamstress) who said "Wow, look at your fit on that dress." I felt like I had graduated from my challenge to conquer sewing with patterns. Yay.

K2771 is a two piece dress. While I love, love, love the skirt, I'd have to put the top in the "pattern OK, but does not work for me" pile. The top looked boxy and boring on me. But the skirt I've made multiple times in different fabrics for a great, comfortable look.

In addition, I reused the B5211 and the Simplicity New Look Project Runway 6120 patterns I so enjoyed during the summer in fall fabrics. Again the patterns did not disappoint.

That's it for my 2013 sewing report. Sorry about the lack of pictures.

Happy sewing in the new year! 

Updated Scorecard!

I've spent so much free time sewing, I am behind on both reviews and photographs.... but I wanted to share the "scorecard" for my sewing with a pattern adventure for late September and early October.

Recommend
Simplicity 1989 (woven dress)
Butterick 5211 (woven dress)
Kwik Sew 3379 (fleece jacket)

Pattern OK, but will not Sew Again
Kwik Sew 3658 (knit dress)

Photos to follow.

Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 3379, purple fleece blazer

Kwik Sew 3379

Pattern Description: Cardigan

Pattern Sizing: XS-S-M-L-XL 
I made the extra small.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes


Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Although the description is "cardigan," the drawing looked more like an unstructured jacket. I like the shape and the fabric drapes well. I also like the pocket placement!!

The pattern calls for serging the edges for decorative effect. While I liked the look, I had trouble maintaining proper tension and the edges turned out a tad more wavy in places than I preferred.


Fabric Used: Fleece on sale from Hancock Fabrics for $3/yard


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: None


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I may sew this again. I like the shape, but I think I will finish the next garment in a different manner.

Conclusion: I do recommend this pattern.  It was easy and the finished garment has a nice shape.

Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 3658, blue knit top

Kwik Sew 3658

I saw this pattern on patternreview. Marjoriekh's review particularly intrigued me. I loved what she did in her one pattern, many dress entry.


Pattern Description: Kwik Sew 3658 Misses' Dress & Top

Pattern Sizing: XS-S-M-L-XL 
I cut an XS and tapered to a M. The dress was small....something that has never before happened to me in a Kwik Sew or other pattern....but it fit my daughter perfectly.

Kwik Sew 3658

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.


Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the shape of the pattern. The top is nice and the double layer from the facing makes the top well suited for fall.


Fabric Used: Cotton interlock from Hancock Fabrics


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made a lettuce hem to the top and sleeves to create a more youthful look for my daughter.


On the advice of PR reviews, I stitched the neckline 1-inch higher than called for in the pattern. ... and I was glad I did so. Thanks PR!!

Kwik Sew 3658

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I may make the dress. I recommend it, but read the reviews on PR, there are good tips.


Conclusion: I enjoyed this pattern and my daughter was thrilled with the top.

Fall Sewing

Simplicity just launched the Sew Simple series that fit in nicely with my "learn to sew from a pattern" quest. These patterns are on the to do list:
Simplicity 1989 (woven dress)
Simplicity 2002 (fleece jacket with woven trim)
Simplicity 2030 (fleece cape)
Simplicity 2018 (knit top)

I also need a new fall skirt and am inclined to use Butterick, B5466 or McCalls M6038.

Once I complete these projects, I want to tackle a wrap dress, a knit dress and a shirt dress. Even after reading Patternreview.com, I am undecided not sure what pattern to purchase or use. There are a few candidates for the wrap dress:
Kwik Sew 3489
Butterick B5030
Vogue V8646 or
Vogue 8631

There are also a few candidates for the knit dress:
Vogue V8663
McCalls M6200
Simplicity Lisette 2060

For the shirt dress, these patterns tempt me:
Simplicity Lisette 2246
McCalls M6279
McCalls M6116

But....I still have the four patterns left to be completed from my summer sewing quest.

Kwik Sew 3564 (woven quilt fabric jacket)
Kwik Sew 3658 (knit dress/top)
Kwik Sew 3870 (woven top)
Kwik Sew 3545 (woven quilt fabric bag)

These all have long sleeve versions and can be used for fall. Yay.

That's my fall sewing plan. What's yours?

Pattern Score Card Update

So the summer is over and we are well in to "back to school" mode. I spent the summer learning how to sew from patterns, rather than just sketch, drape and sew. I still find construction from patterns challenging, but I am making steady progress. Here is my final score card for patterns sewn this summer: 

Successes                                                Failures
*Vogue 8534 (dress & blouse)                Vogue 8647 (dress)
Vogue 8278  (dress)                                Vogue 8632 (dress)
New Look 6915 (blouse/tunic/mini dress)
*Kwik Sew 3394 (T-shirt dress)              Kwik Sew 3225 (wrap dress; unusual construction)
*Kwik Sew 2982 (tank dress)                    Kwik Sew 2954 (wrap skirt)
Kwik Sew 3551 (night gown)
*Kwik Sew 3074 (shorts)
Kwik Sew 3700 (bag/purse)

Pattern OK, But Would Not Repeat
Kwik Sew 3053 (woven dress with tie in back)
Kwik Sew 3085 (fleece jacket)
Kwik Sew 3633 (color block knit dress)
Kwik Sew 3739 (fleece coat)
Butterick Waverly B5507 (shopping and lunch bags)

I have a few more patterns yet to sew in my "learn to sew from a pattern" plan... but the good news, all are suited for fall:

Kwik Sew 3564 (woven quilt fabric jacket)
Kwik Sew 3658 (knit dress)
Kwik Sew 3870 (woven top)
Kwik Sew 3545 (woven quilt fabric bag)

Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 3053, cotton woven dress that ties in back

Kwik Sew 3052, tie in back

I bought this pattern before I knew about patternreview.com. I selected this pattern because I was determined to sew with more discipline and to learn how to use patterns, rather than sketch, drape and sew. 3053 is in the "learn to sew" series. The drawing looked like it was a basic dress similar to many in my wardrobe. Since the pattern had few pieces, it seemed (or should I say seamed) like a good pattern to begin my "learn to use a pattern when sewing quest."

The pattern got shoved to the bottom of my "to do" list and it was not until late summer I used it. Although my muslin was short sleeves, my intent was to make a fall dress from some yummy cotton fabric in my stash.

Pattern Description: XS-S-M-L-XL

Pattern Sizing:
I cut an XS on top and shaped down to a S at the hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes


Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes

Kwik Sew 3053, tie in front

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? As with most Kwik Sew patterns, the instructions are very clear.


I really like the fact that Kwik Sew publishes on paper, rather than tissue. Since I often sew patterns I like in different sizes for different family members, I really appreciate a pattern that is more durable and easier to trace.


Fabric Used: Cotton on sale for $2/yard at Hancock Fabrics


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: None


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I am undecided. I sewed this as a muslin, but found the dress just boring and blah whether I tied it in the front or the back.


Conclusion: Pattern OK, but I am unlikely to use again.

Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 3085, rainbow fleece jacket

Kwik Sew 3085

Pattern Description: Kwik Sew 3085 Misses' Jackets


Pattern Sizing: XS-S-M-L-XL

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.


Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The pattern was huge. I made an XS and it was still quite large.

Fabric Used: Fleece on sale for $3/yard from Hancock Fabrics


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: None
This was a wearable muslin made with inexpensive fleece. If I make this pattern again I will need to narrow the shoulders and shorten the entire length of the jacket.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I made this jacket for my daughter who liked it even though it did not fit as well as I wanted. I may sew it again, but I was disappointed at how off the sizing was on this pattern (compared to other Kwik Sew patterns).

Conclusion: 
Pattern OK, but unsure if I will use again

Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 3739, zebra fleece coat

Kwik Sew 3739

I found some zebra fleece in the bargain bin at Hancock Fabrics. I could not decide if it was fabulous or not, but at $3 a yard I purchased it to use as a "muslin" for new fleece patterns.

Then the fall catalogs began to arrive. After seeing the Sonia Rykiel animal print coat at Bloomingdales and the Chloe python print coat and the Roberto Cavalli jaguar print caftan at Bergdorf Goodmans, I decided my zebra print was a real score.

Kwik Sew 3739

Still, I had a hard time deciding what to do with this zebra fleece fabric. The hunt was on and I found my inspiration at Neiman's with the Brushstroke-Print Cashmere Cardigan. The shape looked a lot like the Kwik Sew 3379, version B but I also liked the shape of Kwik Sew 3096. ..... but neither pattern was available at my local store, so instead I made Kwik Sew 3739.

Pattern Description: Kwik Sew 3739 Coats

Pattern Sizing: XS-S-M-L-XL 
I cut an XS on top tapered to a S on bottom. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes


Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? 
This pattern was more sack like than I expected. It is better suited as a robe or a "house coat" than a coat.

Fabric Used: Fleece from Hancock Fabrics


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: None

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Perhaps. It is nice for cold days, while watching TV.


Conclusion: Pattern OK, but not for me.

Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 3633, long sleeve color blocked knit dress

Kwik Sew 3633

Pattern Description: Pullover dress


Pattern Sizing: XS-S-M-L-XL 
I cut an XS on top and tapered down to between a small and a medium on the bottom

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.


Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the look of color block! I wanted a fall dress and I made this long sleeve, perfect for transition weather.

I had difficulty attaching the top to the skirt. The seam kept stretching and coming out more textured than I like.


Fabric Used: Cotton interlock from Hancock Fabrics


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: None


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? 
I will not sew this again. I was never completely pleased with the cross seam joining the color block.


Conclusion: OK pattern, but did not work for me. Photos to follow.

Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 3700, version D, clutch

Kwik Sew 3700 clutch

I love patterns that include multiple styles. I like choices and I like to be able to try different techniques. The other day my daughter and I used scrap fabric and the pattern for version B of Kwik Sew 3700 to make a purse as a gift.

Today my daughter and I  share version D of Kwik Sew 3700 that we made as another gift for another friend. The pattern was cute and the clutch purse we made did come out looking like the bag on the package. Yay!

Cut the fabric

My daughter embroidered the name on the fabric using our embroidery machine before cutting the fabric.  She cut the pattern while the machine embroidered and then asked me to take over so she could Skype.  We were on a deadline as we needed the present for a party.

I cut the fabric (taking care that the name was placed correctly on the flap) and cut heavy Pellon fusible interfacing. The pattern made a facing optional, but after discussing it, we opted to face both sides of the purse. I ironed the interfacing to the fabric.

Serge the point

After cutting the pieces, I departed from the instructions. I used my sewing machine to sew the two notches on the bottom of the purse and then I used my serger to make a rolled edge on the "V" point of the purse flap.

Serge the seam

I pinned the two pieces of the purse together and then basted the purse using a 1/4-inch seam allowance. I then serged the purse, again using a three-thread, rolled edge.

Once the purse was serged and I checked my work, I turned the purse inside out so the seam no longer showed.

My daughter then added velcro to fasten the purse. She then added a wire wrapped ring and a set of earrings she made to "fill" the purse.

This is a quick, fun project that we will make again. Great teamwork.

Related Reading
Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 3700, Scrap Fabric Purse
Make Wire Wrapped Rings
NJAD Index by Type of Found Object
NJAD Index by Type of Jewelry Made with Found Objects


Further Reading
"Exclusively You: Easy Fabric Purses (Leisure Arts #4228)"; Leiasur Arts; 2006.
"It's a Wrap: Sewing Fabric Purses, Baskets, And Bowls"; Susan Breier; 2006.
"Making Vintage Bags: 20 Original Sewing Patterns for Vintage Bags and Purses"; Emma Brennan; 2007.
"The Bag Making Bible: The Complete Guide to Sewing and Customizing Your Own Unique Bags"; Lisa Lam; 2010.
"101 Fabulous Fat-Quarter Bags with M'Lis: 10 Projects for Totes & Purses Ideas for Embellishments, Trim, Embroidery & Beads Stylish Finishes-Handles & Closures"; M'Liss Rae Hawley; 2008.

Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 3700, Scrap Fabric Purse

Kwik Sew 3700, as adapted

Since we sew, we have scrap fabric. Lots of scrap fabric. Accordingly, we are always looking for projects to take advantage a of scrap fabric. Of course, quilts are great for using scrap fabric...but these girls need variety.

We decided to combine my goal of learning to sew from patterns with our over all goal of using as many reclaimed materials as we can in out crafting and sewing projects. Enter Kwik Sew 3700, a pattern to make four different types of bags and purses using a serger or sewing machine.

My daughter, who is back from camp, helped me create the first bag as a gift for a friend. Yay! I missed her and am happy to have her back so we can play together. :)

Personalized, embroidered bags and purses are great birthday presents and we always enjoy trying new designs. For this project, my daughter selected version B of Kwik Sew 3700 and two different scrap fabrics from our ever growing box of scrap fabric. One fabric was the remnants of some shorts made for camp. The other fabric was remnants from some fabric we found on sale for $1/yard at our local Hancock Fabrics that I have been using to create muslins for new patterns.

The instructions for version B of Kwik Sew 3700 seemed odd to me. It was unclear to me whether or not the instructions called for interfacing in all pieces or just or the front and back panel. I cut fusible interfacing for all the pieces, ironed the interfacing in place and then used our embroidery machine to embroider initials on one side of the bag before beginning construction. The instructions also appeared to have exposed overlock seams. Instead, I sewed the bag using a three thread rolled edge and then turned the bag inside out so no seams were exposed.

We debated whether to add a snap or velcro closure to the top of the bag. We had leftover velcro from another project and so my daughter opted for velcro to secure the top. The closure was needed not just to keep contacts inside the bag but to ensure that the bag fell properly when worn-- especially if the bag was not very full when used.

The finished bag did look a lot like the picture. Overall, a nice pattern as adapted.

Related Tutorials 
Make a Grocery Bag from Scrap Fabric
Make a Grocery Tote Bag from a T-Shirt
Make a Purse from Blue Jeans Shorts
Make a Throw Blanket from Old Sweaters

Pattern
 Kwik Sew 3700

Pattern Report: Successes & Failures for Summer 2011

So my goal this summer was to learn to sew from patterns, rather than drape and sew using items hanging in my closet as a guide for sizing. Last week, I outlined some of the tips I learned about successful pattern execution. The analytical side of me wants to set out my scorecard of successes and failures.

Obviously, what is a success and what is a failure is subjective. For my purposes, the definition is simple: the project is a success if I liked the garment and either I (or one of my kids) enjoyed wearing it. The garment was a failure if I never wanted to wear it. Failures will be taken apart and the fabric reclaimed for future projects.

Here is my score card to date: 

Successes                                                Failures
*Vogue 8534 (dress & blouse)                Vogue 8647 (dress)
Vogue 8278  (dress)                                Vogue 8632 (dress)
New Look 6915 (blouse/tunic/mini dress)
*Kwik Sew 3394 (T-shirt dress)              Kwik Sew 3225 (wrap dress; unusual construction)
*Kwik Sew 2982 (tank dress)                    Kwik Sew 2954 (wrap skirt)
Kwik Sew 3551 (night gown)
*Kwik Sew 3074 (shorts)
Kwik Sew 3700 (bag/purse)

The successful starred patterns I used multiple times.

While there were quite a few failures (bummer), the success column is greater. Yay! Back to sewing.

Related Entries
Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 322
Pattern Report: New Look 6915
Pattern Report: Two-Tone Purple Color Blocked Dress
Tips on Using Sewing Patterns
Embroider a Belt Made from Scrap Fabric for Kwik Sew 3394
Use Your Serger to Make a Belt from Scrap Fabric for Kwik Sew 2982