2013 Score Card

Well my blog has been neglected but I have been sewing... just no time to write about it.

With the passing of a year, I thought I'd take a moment to report on my success with patterns. I still prefer to drape and sew but I've enjoyed learning new techniques through the discipline of sticking to patterns.

And I've learned why I find adjusting patterns so difficult. After examining the clothes I love in my wardrobe, I discovered that there was a reason I purchased certain style of clothes. I am very petite. I have narrow shoulders and I am short-waisted. I am also pear shaped. I gravitate toward dresses and tops that are self belted because fitted clothes rarely hit my waist. I also favor clothes with raglan, kimono and dolman sleeves -- these clothes compensate for my narrow shoulders.

The advantage of making my own clothes is that I can create fitted clothes that compensate for the particular challenges my body presents -- but I find the math a tad tricky. In a fitted dress, I can adjust the dress to fit my petite frame if I alter EITHER the shoulders OR the waist. But not both. For commercial patterns, that means I have been successful adjusting a fitted waist if the sleeves are raglan, dolman or kimono. And I am able to create patterns with set in sleeves if the waist of the pattern has a self belt. But set in sleeves and a fitted waist are difficult for me to create in a manner that meets my perfectionist demands. With that in mind selecting patterns that work for me has been a lot easier....and it translated into a great many more successful projects than failures.

Here is my report of success and failures for summer style clothes:

Success       Pattern OK, But Works Better for My Daughter         Failures
NL6120*                      B5892+                                                              None
V8645                          V8408
M6460                         V8898
V8807*                        V8870+
B5606
B5211*
K3956*
V8898
M6654
V8919
KS2771
KS3003

In fairness, the items in my "did not work for me" list are patterns I should never have sewed for myself. I love the hi-lo look on other folks, but I think I must be to old or to set in my ways for that fashion. Although I got complements on both the skirt (B5892) and the dress (V8870) I made, I felt silly wearing them. I wound up cutting up the material and making other items. And I wound up using the hi-lo patterns to make a darling dress (V8870) and a smart looking skirt (B5892) for my teen age daughter. (I've marked those patterns with an +).

V8898 was a bum steer from a blogger who I otherwise adore. V8898 looks darling on MimiG. I selected it because I thought it would be a more stylish version of B5211, which I made in 5 or 6 versions. But rather than looking chic, as it does on MimiG, it looked just plain strange in my boring DC world.

The hall of fame winners for my summer wardrobe are without question B5211and K3956 The simple lines of these two patterns complemented my love of patterned summer fabric. I made both in a variety of woven and knit fabrics ranging from jersey to silk charmeuse with great success. For both patterns, I added a matching fabric self belt or sash to create dresses I loved wearing in only an hour or two (after initially cutting and altering the pattern).

Here is my report of success and failures for fall style clothes:

Success        Pattern OK, But Does Not Work for Me         Failures

V8919*                                    None                                         M6654

V8408 (OOP)
K2771* 
K3003 

If I had to pick one pattern to use for a fall/winter dress for the rest of my life, it would be 
  V8919. The pattern is that good! I used the pattern in both the straight and A line versions in multiple fabrics. The pattern looked lovely in silk jersey for fall and sewed up like a dream in both a cotton ponte and a wool double knit. The corvette red cotton ponte was a dynamite choice for the office Xmas party. And the wool double knit version keeps my toasty warm on even the coldest days. I get complements of the dress everywhere I go when I wear V8919, but the greatest complement came from one of my childhood girlfriends mother (a seamstress) who said "Wow, look at your fit on that dress." I felt like I had graduated from my challenge to conquer sewing with patterns. Yay.

K2771 is a two piece dress. While I love, love, love the skirt, I'd have to put the top in the "pattern OK, but does not work for me" pile. The top looked boxy and boring on me. But the skirt I've made multiple times in different fabrics for a great, comfortable look.

In addition, I reused the B5211 and the Simplicity New Look Project Runway 6120 patterns I so enjoyed during the summer in fall fabrics. Again the patterns did not disappoint.

That's it for my 2013 sewing report. Sorry about the lack of pictures.

Happy sewing in the new year! 

Pattern Report: Simplicity, Cynthia Rowley 2305, two more satin party dresses

After finishing the berry colored satin party dress for my daughter, I began the second dress for my daughter. She selected an lovely, emerald green satin fabric from Hancock Fabrics and a Cynthia Rowley pattern, Simplicity 2305.

The Cynthia Rowley pattern, Simplicity 2305 does not have the elastic sleeves my daughter found objectionable in Kwik Sew 3538, but the pattern does have very sculpted and quilted sleeves that produce a puffy look at the top of the sleeve. I pointed the sleeve out to my daughter and we went online to look at finished dresses on pattern review. She thought she liked the look... I spent to hours working on the sleeeves...only to discover that she really did not like the look of the quilted sleeve. Again, the puffiness was a problem...are you seeing a theme?

The pattern envelope has a photo of a girl wearing a skirt that is version D of this pattern and a top that is not included in the pattern options but looks a lot like the bodice before adding the quilted sleeves. I showed the envelop to my daughter and suggested we remove the quilted sleeves. Since she is petite, the sleeves were longer than the photo, almost to her elbows and gave the dress a nice look that would not leave her cold in a party during a fall evening. Dress saved.

My daughter paired the dress with the same black leather belt she used for the berry colored dress so I decided that the waist band was unnecessary work and if I made the dress again I would sew it an one piece rather than the separate skirt and bodice per the pattern.

Simplicity 2305, front vi

The third dress my daughter asked me to make was a fabulous black and white polka dot chiffon that she wanted me to make using Vogue DKNY pattern 1160. After reading the PR reviews, it was clear that the sleeves on 1160 are difficult to make...but more important, had the same unusual design my daughter was finding objectionable in earlier dresses. After examining the photo of the DKNY dress, I decided to use my adapted Cynthia Rowley 2305 pattern to make the polka dot chiffon dress. I omitted the quilted sleeve and combined the bodice and skirt in one cut. The dress was quick to sew and once belted had the look my daughter wanted without the fuss of persuading a teenager to stop for fittings.

Here's the review:

Pattern Description:

Pattern Sizing:
I made a size 6 for my petite daughter, but needed to shorten the dress by about 4 inches and take in the sides quite a bit.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
My daughter disliked the sleeves, which were quite puffy.


Fabric Used:
Satin from Hancock Fabrics


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I removed the quilted sleeve detail in the first dress.


In the second dress, I omitted the quilted sleeve and cut the bodice and skirt as one piece (omitting the waist band and substituting a self belt).

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes.  I've made this dress twice for my daughter and think it is a winner.


Conclusion: This is a really nice pattern.

Updated Scorecard!

I've spent so much free time sewing, I am behind on both reviews and photographs.... but I wanted to share the "scorecard" for my sewing with a pattern adventure for late September and early October.

Recommend
Simplicity 1989 (woven dress)
Butterick 5211 (woven dress)
Kwik Sew 3379 (fleece jacket)

Pattern OK, but will not Sew Again
Kwik Sew 3658 (knit dress)

Photos to follow.

Pattern Report: Simplicity 1989, classic woven dress

Simplicity 1989 in silk charmeuse

Pattern Description: Simplicity 1989 Sew Simple Misses Pullover Dress and belt

Pattern Sizing:  Size 6-8-10-12-14-16-18 
I cut an 8 at the top and then tapered down to a size 12 on the bottom.

Simplicity 1989

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.


Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very.

Simplicity 1989, wearable muslin in rayon

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love patterned silk so I am often on the hunt for a simple design for a dress.  This pattern fits the bill. The simple, classic design highlights the colorful patterns on the silk and the ease the sewing works will for a slippery, difficult fabric.

Fabric Used: 
I used a rayon from Fabric Mart on sale $3/yard as my wearable muslin. I liked the dress so much I wore it to a cocktail party. My second and third dresses using this pattern were made from printed silk charmeuse. I used VERY different fabrics for each dress and my family were surprised when I told them all three dresses were made from the same pattern.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I added a facing to the neckline and then I used decorative top stitch rather than using bias tape.

I adjusted the bust dart.

I added fullness to the sleeves by cutting the sleeves to a 10, but left the armscythe an 8.

On the third dress I made using this pattern, I laid the back piece on the fold. The back center seam was not needed and interfered with the pattern on the lovely blue silk charmeuse.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes. This pattern is a keeper! I highly recommend this pattern.

Conclusion: A great pattern!

Fall Sewing

Simplicity just launched the Sew Simple series that fit in nicely with my "learn to sew from a pattern" quest. These patterns are on the to do list:
Simplicity 1989 (woven dress)
Simplicity 2002 (fleece jacket with woven trim)
Simplicity 2030 (fleece cape)
Simplicity 2018 (knit top)

I also need a new fall skirt and am inclined to use Butterick, B5466 or McCalls M6038.

Once I complete these projects, I want to tackle a wrap dress, a knit dress and a shirt dress. Even after reading Patternreview.com, I am undecided not sure what pattern to purchase or use. There are a few candidates for the wrap dress:
Kwik Sew 3489
Butterick B5030
Vogue V8646 or
Vogue 8631

There are also a few candidates for the knit dress:
Vogue V8663
McCalls M6200
Simplicity Lisette 2060

For the shirt dress, these patterns tempt me:
Simplicity Lisette 2246
McCalls M6279
McCalls M6116

But....I still have the four patterns left to be completed from my summer sewing quest.

Kwik Sew 3564 (woven quilt fabric jacket)
Kwik Sew 3658 (knit dress/top)
Kwik Sew 3870 (woven top)
Kwik Sew 3545 (woven quilt fabric bag)

These all have long sleeve versions and can be used for fall. Yay.

That's my fall sewing plan. What's yours?

Pattern Score Card Update

So the summer is over and we are well in to "back to school" mode. I spent the summer learning how to sew from patterns, rather than just sketch, drape and sew. I still find construction from patterns challenging, but I am making steady progress. Here is my final score card for patterns sewn this summer: 

Successes                                                Failures
*Vogue 8534 (dress & blouse)                Vogue 8647 (dress)
Vogue 8278  (dress)                                Vogue 8632 (dress)
New Look 6915 (blouse/tunic/mini dress)
*Kwik Sew 3394 (T-shirt dress)              Kwik Sew 3225 (wrap dress; unusual construction)
*Kwik Sew 2982 (tank dress)                    Kwik Sew 2954 (wrap skirt)
Kwik Sew 3551 (night gown)
*Kwik Sew 3074 (shorts)
Kwik Sew 3700 (bag/purse)

Pattern OK, But Would Not Repeat
Kwik Sew 3053 (woven dress with tie in back)
Kwik Sew 3085 (fleece jacket)
Kwik Sew 3633 (color block knit dress)
Kwik Sew 3739 (fleece coat)
Butterick Waverly B5507 (shopping and lunch bags)

I have a few more patterns yet to sew in my "learn to sew from a pattern" plan... but the good news, all are suited for fall:

Kwik Sew 3564 (woven quilt fabric jacket)
Kwik Sew 3658 (knit dress)
Kwik Sew 3870 (woven top)
Kwik Sew 3545 (woven quilt fabric bag)

Pattern Report: Successes & Failures for Summer 2011

So my goal this summer was to learn to sew from patterns, rather than drape and sew using items hanging in my closet as a guide for sizing. Last week, I outlined some of the tips I learned about successful pattern execution. The analytical side of me wants to set out my scorecard of successes and failures.

Obviously, what is a success and what is a failure is subjective. For my purposes, the definition is simple: the project is a success if I liked the garment and either I (or one of my kids) enjoyed wearing it. The garment was a failure if I never wanted to wear it. Failures will be taken apart and the fabric reclaimed for future projects.

Here is my score card to date: 

Successes                                                Failures
*Vogue 8534 (dress & blouse)                Vogue 8647 (dress)
Vogue 8278  (dress)                                Vogue 8632 (dress)
New Look 6915 (blouse/tunic/mini dress)
*Kwik Sew 3394 (T-shirt dress)              Kwik Sew 3225 (wrap dress; unusual construction)
*Kwik Sew 2982 (tank dress)                    Kwik Sew 2954 (wrap skirt)
Kwik Sew 3551 (night gown)
*Kwik Sew 3074 (shorts)
Kwik Sew 3700 (bag/purse)

The successful starred patterns I used multiple times.

While there were quite a few failures (bummer), the success column is greater. Yay! Back to sewing.

Related Entries
Pattern Report: Kwik Sew 322
Pattern Report: New Look 6915
Pattern Report: Two-Tone Purple Color Blocked Dress
Tips on Using Sewing Patterns
Embroider a Belt Made from Scrap Fabric for Kwik Sew 3394
Use Your Serger to Make a Belt from Scrap Fabric for Kwik Sew 2982

Pattern Report: New Look 6915 Dress

Trina Turk Eye Candy

What my husband calls fashion porn arrived in the mail today: another fall collection, this one from Lord and Taylor. In the mailer was yummy dress designed by Trina Turk, a simple, elegant silk with a bold print. I don't like the lining she and other RTW designers use in many silk dresses. What's the point of wearing silk if you have polyester next to your skin? The design in the dress is a shape I wear and sew (in different lengths and variations) year after year.

I found a really nice cotton print that I wanted to make up using a similar design. Thumbing through my collection of patterns, I noticed that version A of New Look 6915 would fit the bill if I added to the length.

I cut a size 8 of New Look 6915 (version A) but added 6-1/2 inches in length to create a dress that hit just above the knee. I basted the seams and the dress fit perfectly.... but all was not well.

The scissor elfs were playing games again. I cut the size eight facings for the size 8 top and the facings did not fit. Not even close. I checked to see if I cut the wrong facing for the top or if my sizing was off for either, but it looked as though I had cut per instructions. Oh, well.

New Look 6915, as modified

Now I had a problem to solve. The pattern called for 2-1/4 yards of fabric for a mini-skirt.  I had only 2 yards and I was adding 6-1/2 inches to the bottom of the pattern. I had enough to cut all the pieces on the fold as instructed, leaving plenty to make the belt from the left-over around the selvage....but I did not have enough material for a do-over on the facing. Oy.

To work around the facing issue, I serged a three thread rolled hem on the neckline and arms before stitching the dress together. I used my serger to create a matching hemline. Since serged edges figured prominently in the dress, I skipped the instructions for the belt altogether, cut a 2-1/2 inch piece of fabric for the belt and then serged all the way around the edges using the technique explained in my earlier tutorial.

Pattern
New Look 6915 version A.

Related Tutorials
Embroider a Belt Made from Scrap Fabric
Use Your Serger to Make a Belt from Scrap Fabric