2013 Score Card

Well my blog has been neglected but I have been sewing... just no time to write about it.

With the passing of a year, I thought I'd take a moment to report on my success with patterns. I still prefer to drape and sew but I've enjoyed learning new techniques through the discipline of sticking to patterns.

And I've learned why I find adjusting patterns so difficult. After examining the clothes I love in my wardrobe, I discovered that there was a reason I purchased certain style of clothes. I am very petite. I have narrow shoulders and I am short-waisted. I am also pear shaped. I gravitate toward dresses and tops that are self belted because fitted clothes rarely hit my waist. I also favor clothes with raglan, kimono and dolman sleeves -- these clothes compensate for my narrow shoulders.

The advantage of making my own clothes is that I can create fitted clothes that compensate for the particular challenges my body presents -- but I find the math a tad tricky. In a fitted dress, I can adjust the dress to fit my petite frame if I alter EITHER the shoulders OR the waist. But not both. For commercial patterns, that means I have been successful adjusting a fitted waist if the sleeves are raglan, dolman or kimono. And I am able to create patterns with set in sleeves if the waist of the pattern has a self belt. But set in sleeves and a fitted waist are difficult for me to create in a manner that meets my perfectionist demands. With that in mind selecting patterns that work for me has been a lot easier....and it translated into a great many more successful projects than failures.

Here is my report of success and failures for summer style clothes:

Success       Pattern OK, But Works Better for My Daughter         Failures
NL6120*                      B5892+                                                              None
V8645                          V8408
M6460                         V8898
V8807*                        V8870+
B5606
B5211*
K3956*
V8898
M6654
V8919
KS2771
KS3003

In fairness, the items in my "did not work for me" list are patterns I should never have sewed for myself. I love the hi-lo look on other folks, but I think I must be to old or to set in my ways for that fashion. Although I got complements on both the skirt (B5892) and the dress (V8870) I made, I felt silly wearing them. I wound up cutting up the material and making other items. And I wound up using the hi-lo patterns to make a darling dress (V8870) and a smart looking skirt (B5892) for my teen age daughter. (I've marked those patterns with an +).

V8898 was a bum steer from a blogger who I otherwise adore. V8898 looks darling on MimiG. I selected it because I thought it would be a more stylish version of B5211, which I made in 5 or 6 versions. But rather than looking chic, as it does on MimiG, it looked just plain strange in my boring DC world.

The hall of fame winners for my summer wardrobe are without question B5211and K3956 The simple lines of these two patterns complemented my love of patterned summer fabric. I made both in a variety of woven and knit fabrics ranging from jersey to silk charmeuse with great success. For both patterns, I added a matching fabric self belt or sash to create dresses I loved wearing in only an hour or two (after initially cutting and altering the pattern).

Here is my report of success and failures for fall style clothes:

Success        Pattern OK, But Does Not Work for Me         Failures

V8919*                                    None                                         M6654

V8408 (OOP)
K2771* 
K3003 

If I had to pick one pattern to use for a fall/winter dress for the rest of my life, it would be 
  V8919. The pattern is that good! I used the pattern in both the straight and A line versions in multiple fabrics. The pattern looked lovely in silk jersey for fall and sewed up like a dream in both a cotton ponte and a wool double knit. The corvette red cotton ponte was a dynamite choice for the office Xmas party. And the wool double knit version keeps my toasty warm on even the coldest days. I get complements of the dress everywhere I go when I wear V8919, but the greatest complement came from one of my childhood girlfriends mother (a seamstress) who said "Wow, look at your fit on that dress." I felt like I had graduated from my challenge to conquer sewing with patterns. Yay.

K2771 is a two piece dress. While I love, love, love the skirt, I'd have to put the top in the "pattern OK, but does not work for me" pile. The top looked boxy and boring on me. But the skirt I've made multiple times in different fabrics for a great, comfortable look.

In addition, I reused the B5211 and the Simplicity New Look Project Runway 6120 patterns I so enjoyed during the summer in fall fabrics. Again the patterns did not disappoint.

That's it for my 2013 sewing report. Sorry about the lack of pictures.

Happy sewing in the new year! 

Turn Your Kid's Old Blue Jeans into a Purse

Before: worn, outgrown jeans

If you have kids, you are likely to have outgrown blue jeans in your house. Old blue jeans are a great source of fabric for crafts, including homemade handbags.

Some of my daughter's old jeans have really nice, decorative pockets that can be reclaimed and repurposed to add interesting details to the bag.

While this bag can be created with a sewing machine or a serger, I recently learned how to use the piping foot of my serger to install a zipper, making the assembly of this blue jeans bag super fast.


Here is how we did it:


Tools

After: Repurposed Blue Jeans Purse

Fabric scissors
Rotary cutter
24 x 36 self healing mat
6 x24 quilting ruler
Embroidery scissors
Sewing Machine or Serger (optional)

Materials
Old blue jeans or other heavy, scrap fabric
Serger thread or sewing thread
Nylon or polyester zipper
Needles

Step 1

Cut jeans

Cut along the inseam of one blue jean leg to create a piece of flat fabric. Cut out a back pocket.

Cut fabric & place pocket

Step 2
Cut a piece of blue jean fabric about 9-inches x 20-inches. Place the pocket where you want it to be on the bag. Pin the pocket in place.

Step 3
Sew the pocket to the material using a top stitch about 1/4-inch from the edge of the pocket.  

Hint: An edge stitch or stitch in the ditch presser foot will make the job a lot easier.

Step 4
Place the nylon or polyester zipper at the edge of the fabric so the right side of the fabric faces the right side of the zipper tape.  

Warning: If you are using a serger, select a zipper that is at least four inches wider than your fabric. The zipper must be wider than the fabric so the blade is not damaged when serging the zipper in place. Also, do not use a metal zipper on a serger or you could damage your blade.

Step 5
Pin or baste or glue baste the zipper to the fabric.
  

Glue baste

Hint: A glue stick or seam tape works very well if you plan to serge the zipper to the fabric.

Step 6
Sew one side of the zipper. Repeat for the second side of the zipper.

Step 7

Cut inseam

Prepare the handle for the handbag. Cut the inseam off the length of the blue jeans.

Serge inseam to create handle

Serge over the inseam to create a strong, durable handle for your repurposed blue jeans bag. Turn the inseam around and serge the other side of the inseam.

Determine the length handle you want for your bag and cut the serged inseam to that length.

Step 8
Turn the bag so it is inside out. Insert the serged inseam you prepared as a hnadle just above the zipper so each end of the inseam pokes out of the bag and will be caught and sewn in place as you sew or serge the sides of the bag closed. Check to be sure the handle of the bag will not be caught, just the ends. Sew or serge the edges of the bag.

Add depth to bag

Step 9
Add depth to your bag by folding the bottom corners of the bag out and serging over the corners.

Step 10

Handbag from repurposed blue jeans

Turn the bag right side out and enjoy.

Further Reading:
"Hip Handbags"; Valerie Van Arsdale Shrader; 2005.
"Handbag Designer 101"; Emily Blumenthal; 2011.

Related Tutorials 
Make a Grocery Bag from Scrap Fabric
Make a Grocery Tote Bag from a T-Shirt
Make a Purse from Blue Jeans Shorts
Make a Throw Blanket from Old Sweaters

Pattern Report: Vogue 8777, Katherine Tilton

This is the first review for a pattern I never made. I bought V8777 because I loved, loved, loved the design. I purchased some really nice wool that I wanted to turn into a vest. I often take out patterns and read the pattern through the evening or so before I begin a new project. Light reading.

This pattern was the first where I was sure something was missing. Often, when a pattern confuses me I assume my inexperience is the problem. That may be the case with this pattern as well, but after shutting off the TV and reading and then re-reading the pattern several times, I still could not make heads or tails out of the instructions.

I turned to patternreview.com for help and saw that V8777 had never been reviewed. Oops. I forgot. When I bought the pattern I knew that there were no reviews. I attributed the lack of review to the simple design....but maybe others found the pattern instructions as confusing as I did.

Vogue pattern 1124 is a Sandra Betzina design with a similar look, so perhaps I will purchase V1124 and give it a try to make my vest.

Sewing Books for a Cold Fall Day

Like many of you, I like to read about sewing almost as much as I enjoy sewing. The process of advancing my skills and technique excite me. I return to many of my sewing reference books a lot and each time I see things in a new way.

This week I went to the library and checked out a bunch of sewing books. Many were real winners.

For advanced beginner to rather advanced sewers, I highly recommend the following two books. Both contain lots of photos and thoughtful tips and techniques that will likely save you time. Your skill will depend on how much you get of the book, but there is likely something for most:

Secrets of Successful Sewing: Techniques for Your Sewing Machine & Serger; Barbara Weiland; 1997.
The Dressmaker's Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques; Lynda Maynard; 2010.

I told you how difficult a time I had working with patterns. Every pattern I made came out HUGE. I would have saved a LOT of time if I had read this book before beginning my adventures in sewing with patterns. No matter what your body type or sewing issue, this book likely explains how to  adjust the pattern to (in the wise words of Tim Gunn) make it work for you. It is a really, really helpful book:


Every Sewer's Guide to the Perfect Fit: Customizing Patterns for a Sensational Look; May Morris, Sally McCann, G Street Fabrics; 1997.

My only quarrel with the book is that it was co-authored by G Street and yet the G Street folks were no help to me at all when I explained the problem of excess ease and my frustration with making the patterns fit me. Why didn't they tell me about the book they wrote? hmmmm

As you know, my favorite way to sew is to use garments hanging in our closet as a guide. Garments we own fit and look flattering. Duplicating the design of garments we wear is almost always a sure success. Until recently I was not very disciplined when duplicating designs. I just draped, cut and sewed. The issue is I had to repeat every time. I wanted to be able to expand to create master patterns of designs that work for me and my family. This
book is instructive (although the video by Nancy Zieman was also a great help).
Patterns from Finished Clothes: Re-Creating the Clothes You Love; Tracy Doyle; 1996.

There were a couple classic sewing books on the shelf that I either had not seen before or had not reviewed in a while. All had helpful hints, especially for beginning sewers:

Vogue Easy Sewing; Lynn C. Ferrari; 1985.
The Complete Book of Sewing; Deni Brown;1996

I loved reading the classic text on patternmaking. Whilemy interest is only in creating patterns for me and my family, the concepts and sketches in this book were a nice complement to the G Street book:

Patternmaking for Fashion Design (3rd Ed.); Helen Joseph-Armstrong; 2000.

Finally, I spent time reading a specialty book on handbags. Making handbags is one of my very favorite use of scrap fabric. The concept of this book was to give a handful of basic patterns and then show how to adapt these basic designs. This is another really fun idea book:

Hip Handbags; Valerie Van Arsdale Shrader; 2005.

Pattern Report: Simplicity, Cynthia Rowley 2305, two more satin party dresses

After finishing the berry colored satin party dress for my daughter, I began the second dress for my daughter. She selected an lovely, emerald green satin fabric from Hancock Fabrics and a Cynthia Rowley pattern, Simplicity 2305.

The Cynthia Rowley pattern, Simplicity 2305 does not have the elastic sleeves my daughter found objectionable in Kwik Sew 3538, but the pattern does have very sculpted and quilted sleeves that produce a puffy look at the top of the sleeve. I pointed the sleeve out to my daughter and we went online to look at finished dresses on pattern review. She thought she liked the look... I spent to hours working on the sleeeves...only to discover that she really did not like the look of the quilted sleeve. Again, the puffiness was a problem...are you seeing a theme?

The pattern envelope has a photo of a girl wearing a skirt that is version D of this pattern and a top that is not included in the pattern options but looks a lot like the bodice before adding the quilted sleeves. I showed the envelop to my daughter and suggested we remove the quilted sleeves. Since she is petite, the sleeves were longer than the photo, almost to her elbows and gave the dress a nice look that would not leave her cold in a party during a fall evening. Dress saved.

My daughter paired the dress with the same black leather belt she used for the berry colored dress so I decided that the waist band was unnecessary work and if I made the dress again I would sew it an one piece rather than the separate skirt and bodice per the pattern.

Simplicity 2305, front vi

The third dress my daughter asked me to make was a fabulous black and white polka dot chiffon that she wanted me to make using Vogue DKNY pattern 1160. After reading the PR reviews, it was clear that the sleeves on 1160 are difficult to make...but more important, had the same unusual design my daughter was finding objectionable in earlier dresses. After examining the photo of the DKNY dress, I decided to use my adapted Cynthia Rowley 2305 pattern to make the polka dot chiffon dress. I omitted the quilted sleeve and combined the bodice and skirt in one cut. The dress was quick to sew and once belted had the look my daughter wanted without the fuss of persuading a teenager to stop for fittings.

Here's the review:

Pattern Description:

Pattern Sizing:
I made a size 6 for my petite daughter, but needed to shorten the dress by about 4 inches and take in the sides quite a bit.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
My daughter disliked the sleeves, which were quite puffy.


Fabric Used:
Satin from Hancock Fabrics


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I removed the quilted sleeve detail in the first dress.


In the second dress, I omitted the quilted sleeve and cut the bodice and skirt as one piece (omitting the waist band and substituting a self belt).

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes.  I've made this dress twice for my daughter and think it is a winner.


Conclusion: This is a really nice pattern.

Pattern Report: Vogue 8522, purple fleece jacket

Vogue 8522 made with purple fleece

Score! I bought this pattern because I wanted a new fall jacket. I bought some inexpensive purple fleece at Hancock Fabrics to use as a wearable muslin... but my daughter decided she loved the look and so I made Vogue 8522 jacket for her rather than me. This is an easy to make, cute jacket that my daughter wears over dresses. Perfect for fall!



Pattern Description: Jacket with kimono sleeves


Pattern Sizing: 8-16
I made a size 8.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? yes.


Were the instructions easy to follow? yes


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Fabric Used: purple fleece on sale for $3/yard at Hancock Fabrics.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: None


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes. This jacket is cute. I would have made one for myself, bu my daughter forbade it...I'll have to wait a year or two, but I will make this jacket for me using a nice wool.


Conclusion: Vogue 8522 is a winner!


Further Reading:
Vogue Revised & Updated
Vogue Sewing; Editors of Vogue & Butterick

Updated Scorecard!

I've spent so much free time sewing, I am behind on both reviews and photographs.... but I wanted to share the "scorecard" for my sewing with a pattern adventure for late September and early October.

Recommend
Simplicity 1989 (woven dress)
Butterick 5211 (woven dress)
Kwik Sew 3379 (fleece jacket)

Pattern OK, but will not Sew Again
Kwik Sew 3658 (knit dress)

Photos to follow.